Some Assembly Required: A Tale of Two Vises (Part 2)

After installing the Benchcrafted Glide Leg Vise – about which I have nothing to say that isn’t praise – it was time to move on to the tail vise. I considered a lot of different options, including the Veritas Surface Vise (simple, easy to install, but I was afraid it might not be heavy enough for what I would put it through), a heavy Veritas Twin-screw Vise (overkill for the right end of my bench), the Lie-Nielsen Tail Vise (nice, but not the design I wanted), a traditional wagon vise (nice, but was going to be difficult to install – because I didn’t plan for it in the original bench design)… and I finally found exactly what I was looking for: the Veritas Quick-Release Sliding Tail Vise.

It had every feature I wanted: looked simple to install, required minimal modifications to the bench, and did exactly what I needed – open and close rapidly and solidly to hold work between dogs. The leg vise is more important to me and the kind of work I do, and I held out for exactly what I wanted.

But the kicker was when I found the Veritas vise on eBay new in its box for about half retail price. $139 was just too good to pass up. It arrived, and like the Benchcrafted vise, I set it aside until I was recovered from surgery. I did, however, read the instructions: seven pages (including cover and end pages). Looked really, really simple to install.

I thought I was facing an afternoon’s work. Thus are battles won and lost.

Part 2: The Veritas Quick-Release Sliding Tail Vise

Before I begin the saga… please note: Most of this was my fault, and not that of the good people at Lee Valley. This is an extremely well-made and well-designed product.

The instructions (and intention) of the designers are to install the vise on a bench where you’re adding a front apron. However, I was installing the vise in a new bench, and decided to place it in a new cutout, not in an added apron. That changed everything.

Problem #1: If you’re installing this vise without adding a front apron, the dimensions of the jaw are wrong. It’s intended to be fit into place, and the apron added afterwards flush against the jaw of the vise. That’s well and good, but my intent was to inset the vise into a cutout in the bench top, ending flush against the leg of the bench. So I made the jaw, attached it to the mechanism, and forged ahead.

I was worried about the long instructions for the Benchcrafted vise. For some reason, I was thinking that “long exacting instructions” were more difficult than “short, simple instructions”. What was I thinking?

The Veritas vise is pretty simple. But I found the instructions (particularly the drawings for the jaw) extremely confusing. By comparison, the step-by-step Benchcrafted instructions, with photographs of each stage and details on construction of the pieces were vastly better. The Veritas instructions were a lot like IKEA instructions by comparison.

Making the first cut adjacent to the leg for the jaw was a couple of minutes work with a carcase saw.

Problem #2: Simple cuts aren’t necessarily easy. All I had to do was cut out the area for the jaw – about 17 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ x 2″ of the front right corner of the bench. I decided that the best way to cut this area out was with a bowsaw.

I have a love/hate relationship with my bowsaw… it feels great to use and is extremely versatile. But the blade just wasn’t quite up to cutting an area 4 1/2″ thick in soft, resinous wood like southern yellow pine. As the cut advanced, it started to bind slightly, so I cut and inserted a small wedge in the end of the kerf to keep it open while sawing.

About halfway through, I shifted my stance… and the saw started to cut at an angle. This is what comes from trying to make a straight cut against a single line. I didn’t check the tracking of the lower part of the cut often enough, and didn’t realize the drift was occurring until it was too late. The result: the cut was nice and straight on the top of the bench, but drifted about 1/2″ on the bottom.

Lessons: 1) Make cuts like this with a panel saw, not a bowsaw – bowsaws work better in thinner stock (some will disagree, but that’s where I’ve gotten into problems – and yes, it’s tensioned correctly). 2) Watch two lines when you’re cutting, not just one. 3) Plan this kind of hardware carefully before you build the bench – I could actually have built the top to accommodate the vise in the first place.

Having miscut the inside face of the jaw, it was time to drop back and punt. I decided to make a “design alteration” and re-face the miscut area with an inset piece of mesquite – to match the jaw itself. That meant recutting the inside jaw surface (correctly, this time) and adding a mesquite liner. Since I had to do that anyway, I decided to do the same thing to the end. I set a piece into the leg – since cutting flush to the leg had exposed the leg joinery, and it would match the other side.

Mounting the vise plate to the base was exacting, but not difficult. It suggested turning the bench upside down (a practical impossibility at this point), but I compromised by tipping it up on one end and clamping the mounting plate on the bench to drill the pilot holes. The rest of the installation went smoothly…and when I closed the vise, the Ugly Truth came out – the jaw was about an inch and a half too short to close. After a lot of head-scratching, I came back to this line in the instructions: “Back the vise off slightly (one or two turns) and install the apron so that the jaw clamps up to the apron before the vise uses its full travel.”

Lesson: Check the fit of all parts before assembly, no matter how right you think you are or how heavy the parts. Enough said about that.

Grrrrrrrrrr. There was no good answer except to make a new jaw. Fortunately, I had enough 8/4 stock on hand, and I only wound up wasting a little of the original jaw – the wood was “repurposed” for other assemblies.

Problem #3: Not having an apron to align against the vise after it’s installed makes the tolerances smaller and the installation more exacting. It still wouldn’t quite, quite close – by about 1/8″. So I dismounted the jaw (again) and trimmed out the mounting holes to allow the lag screws to be set slightly forward in the jaw and let it close.

Drilling out the dog holes in the top of the jaw was slow, but not difficult – with a forstner bit and a drill guide.

There was a slight bind opening and closing the vise, which was easily rectified with a couple of washers between the jaw and the hardware at the handle end. Once completed, it opened and closed nicely – it’s very well made, and operates smoothly.

Problem #4: The Veritas Quick-Release Sliding Tail Vise is not intended to be installed on a bench with a sliding deadman. The holes in the jaw are nice and close to the front of the bench – and when I drilled the matching holes in the bench, I drilled right into the slot for the sliding deadman. I really didn’t see this coming. The holdfasts drop right in the way of the deadman track.

Lesson: Thimk.

There’s no good solution for this. It doesn’t really hurt anything; it just means that I’ll have to move the deadman around when setting holdfasts in place. If I had thought about it in advance, I could have made the jaw thicker and set the holes farther inward… but that would make the vise heavier to operate.

The only real complaint I have about the vise itself were the instructions, which were sketchy and somewhat confusing. I had gotten spoiled to the clarity of the Benchcrafted instructions, which take into account a lot of different mounting options. The Veritas tail vise is intended to be installed one way and one way only. Modify At Your Own Risk. If I had it to do over again, I’d probably go with the Benchcrafted tail vise instead – it looks like a more difficult installation, but it would be easier (I think) to inset it farther back and avoid the deadman track. But then again, I really like the quick-release mechanism of the Veritas vise, and I’m happy with the end results… just not the process I went through.

Is this their fault? No – design of the bench was up to me, and I didn’t put all the pieces together first. Ultimately, it works well – I’ll find the overlap of dog holes and the deadman track annoying, but it’s not a deal-breaker. It’s just a lesson.

Music that day was Leo Gosselin’s Celtic Vision (for Chapman Stick) and a bunch of old ’80s stuff.

Ross Henton

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Some Assembly Required: A Tale of Two Vises (Part 1)

As the Roubo progresses from bench to workbench – maybe it’s a fine distinction, but I think it’s valid – I’ve started to think of it as the Roubo du Garage.  It’s smaller than standard (about 23″ x 60″), and has some compromises.  But since its function is workholding, I decided that the one place I would not compromise is in the quality of the workholding hardware. It was an indulgence, and a fun one.

That’s not to say it’s all modern. Both of the vises are very new designs, and one is as close to top-of-the-line as it comes.  But the most important part of the workholding is the (very) old system of holdfasts and dog holes. There’s been a world of information written about holdfasts the past few years, some of which seems contradictory, some very straightforward.

The lessons that came out of this part of the project weren’t what I expected, and included a mix of what-to-do and what-not-to do; of good design and poor; document writing both good and bad, and some really good customer service from a small company.  The bench became a mix of old tool designs and new ones.  I love the outcome, but it’s like the contrast between my chisels and my iPad (more on the iPad as an indispensable shop tool in the future). 

Now that the bench itself was built and standing, I flattened the top with the help of a new/old Stanley #40 scrub plane.  This comes under the heading of “why didn’t I get one of these years ago”.  It hogs wood off in neat little curls faster than you’d believe.  It took no – ZERO – time to learn, seconds to set, and evened up the top enough for my jointer plane in a few minutes. 

Sighting for flattening the top is accomplished with two parallel sticks called winding sticks. Each is a different color, and you lay them across the top and sight across them to see twist in the wood. Yes, it’s that easy.  No, you won’t see pictures of mine here… they’re just spray-painted angle aluminum.  When I have time to make a set out of mesquite and maple, then I’ll post them.  If you’re interested in this technique, Google “winding sticks”, or read this excellent article from Fine Woodworking. Or buy Chris Schwarz’s book (visible on my iPad).  Or almost any other book about traditional woodworking.

I must have read the section about the Roubo in this excellent book a dozen times. Including the part about routing a groove in the underside of the top for the sliding deadman before assembling it. Of course, I didn’t.  The solution was five minutes with a palm router, and that crisis was averted. The slot didn’t go all the way to the right front leg, but a few minutes with a chisel fixed that.

Part 1: The Benchcrafted Glide Vise

This was a piece of engineering I loved from the moment I saw the pictures. A heavy face vise, with the weight fully supported by two rollers – one above the parallel guide, and one below.  I watched a video of one being gently spun open and closed.  And I was hooked.

The first thing I’ll say about the company is this: They told me eight weeks. I had it in three.

When I unwrapped the parts, I was really, really impressed at the quality of construction and the beauty of the product.  When I downloaded the instructions from their website, well… that’s when the qualms started. The instructions are twenty-seven pages long. Fully illustrated. Some of the hardware required cutting threaded holes in the table with taps. It also sat in its box for three months while I recovered from my shoulder surgery.  It kind of hung on the horizon, and intimidated me from a distance.

I decided that I’d make the assorted workholding pieces (the chop and parallel guide, tail vise, deadman, and planing stop) out of mesquite. I have a love/hate relationship with it. I love the way it looks, the weight, and the way it handles when it cooperates. I hate how it dulls tools and can be difficult to work.  But I made the drive up to Woods of Mission Timber, and spent some time sorting out the pieces I wanted – including 8/4 stock for the vises.

The piece I selected has some small cracks that don’t go very deep, and won’t compromise the strength of the chop.  It also had a large-ish knot about halfway through the thickness.  For decorative work, I usually fill mesquite flaws with powdered copper and epoxy; for this, I decided on epoxy and some black ink – making a solid, polished black fill.

After cutting the shape of the chop, I pried the knot out and mixed the epoxy.  The knot came down the side of the chop about halfway, so I stuck some blue painter’s tape on the side to keep it from spilling out.  I poured the epoxy in and let it set.  Interesting lesson: epoxy gets hot when it cures.  The more you use, the hotter it gets. This was about a quarter of a cup, and was too hot to touch for quite a while.

Once it set, I pulled the tap, ran a router around the edge of the chop to make the chamfered edge, and scraped the excess epoxy off with a card scraper. It sands and polishes right along with the wood.

The parallel guide was cut with a simple tenon on one end, and a matching mortise cut into the chop at the bottom.  3/8″ holes are drilled along the length to insert a pin to keep the chop of the vise from racking unevenly when tightened.  The parallel guide was locked in place with drawbored pins of rived white oak.  I noticed after it was finished (too late) that it’s slightly out of square with the chop… just a couple of degrees, not enough to make any difference to the operation of the vise, but enough to annoy me because I know it’s there.


The wheel and screw are mounted to the vise with machine screws into threaded holes. I’ve tapped threads into metal in the past, but not into wood – and I was a little skeptical.  No longer.  It’s much easier than tapping into metal, and holds extremely well.  There’s no need to tap the holes a quarter-turn at a time – drill the pilot hole, attach the tap to a hand drill, and let the tap feed itself. Backing out the tap three or four times through the depth of the hole was sufficient to keep the threads clear of chips.  Two things, here – first, put no pressure on the tap; just let it thread itself. Hold the drill loosely, and let the tap do its work. Second, don’t let it hit bottom – it will dig in and spin, and strip the threads out. Know when to stop.

The rollers are easy to make with a bandsaw.  Templates are available on the Benchcrafted website, and can be printed and stuck to the blanks. Cutting and assembling them is short work. The longest part is drilling out and shaping the slots for the mounting bolts.

The process of mounting the rollers, the vise, and the acetal bearing the screw rides on is exacting, but not difficult if you follow the instructions carefully. Which is the second thing I’ll say about Benchcrafted: they know how to write instructions. I’ve done a lot of technical writing, and their instructions are clear, concise, accurate, and have useful information about places you might get into trouble.   The instructions were perfectly and completely accurate in every respect.

At first, I had some difficulty adjusting the height of the rear roller bearing… or so I thought. As it turned out, I had the slot for the parallel guide a little too tight, and it was trying to drag slightly. A few minutes with a rasp cleaned out the high spot, and it worked perfectly. It functions exactly as described – which is high praise.  It spins freely and grabs tight.

The hardware comes with a 3/8″ rolled steel pin to make make the locking pin for the parallel guide.  All you have to do is make a handle.  Or, better yet – I decided to use that Crown burnisher I recently decided that I really hated and threw into a junk drawer.  It makes the perfect $19.95 parallel guide pin. And I laugh every time I look at it.

It wasn’t the simplest assembly I’ve ever done, but it worked great and I love the results. I wound up using it to finish some of the remaining work on the bench, and it works better and smoother than any vise I’ve ever used.  It’s exactly as good as the company – and the reviewers – have said. Not many new devices seem to live up to that.

This is the first of two vises… and the other story isn’t quite as pleasant. Stay tuned.

Oh, before I forget: music was Greg Howard’s Stick Figures, and Rob Martino’s One Cloud – both music for the Chapman Stick. Great albums, both of them.

Ross Henton